Finality is a terrible thing. Especially when it means the end of a week of dazzling creations and moving art. Today sees the final installment of my Couture Week series (see the previous posts here and here).
This post focuses on three collections: Versace, Valentino and Dolce & Gabbana who actually showed in Rome at Alta Moda. Valentino and D&G were beautifulllllllll and filled with a sense of royal etherealism (that’s not a word but I’m making it one, so deal) and Versace was its usual sexualized self.
It’s Thursday but it feels like Friday so relax, kick your feet up and have one last delve into the depth of desire.
VERSACE (VERSACE VERSACE VERSACE)
Sticking to a palette of four colours -black, white, red and blue – Versace did what they do best: SEX.
This was a dream. Maria Grazia Chiura and Pierpaulo Piccioli (Valentino’s Creative Directors) were inspired by ‘love in its purest form’ and that ideology was perfectly executed in this collection.
DOLCE & GABBANA (ALTA MODA)
D&G also showed a Haute Couture Mens collection – Alta Sartoria – because one is simply not enough. Below you can get a glimpse of how utterly extravagant the collection was (courtesy of Vogue’s incomparable Suzy Menkes)…
Couture Week may be over but Fashion Month is coming our way so don’t forget to watch this space and hit the follow button for up-to-the-minute coverage, catchups and criticisms.
PS I’ll be off the grid until next week because my family is all down for the weekend and that means eating out every meal, jolling and living our best lives.
Here we are again; reveling in all the glory that was last week’s scintillating display from some of the biggest fashion houses: COUTURE WEEK.
Yesterday I posted about Dior and Giambattista Valli; today is all about the King. King Karl, that is. And his genius counterpart, Jean Paul Gaultier. These are two of the most talented creative minds in the world and of all time (a bold statement, I know, but oh so true. And if you don’t believe me then BYE). Chanel and JPG – cos we’re tight like that – showed in Paris last week and absolutely blew me away with their shows. Shows, I remind you. Because it is always about so much more than just the clothes (in fact, sometimes the clothes don’t even make an impact but the theatrics of the show are what draw you in and wow you – a concept I discussed during the previous fashion week here).
These two men, albeit exceptionally contrasted, produced two of the most unbelievable shows of Couture Week. Chanel showed first at The Grand Palais (their usual spot, shame) and next was Jean Paul Gaultier. I’m obsessed. Not only because they had phenomenal collections but because they are both intricately connected to my summer course in London at Conde Nast College. Chanel, because the set and invitation were uncannily similar to a fashion show concept myself and a very clearly highly talented team created during our course (think all white mechanical flowers that opened to match the colour of the dress walking past and a white invitation that opened into a 3D flower) and because I went to the Jean Paul Gaultier exhibition at The Barbican and almost died of fashion ecstasy. So I’m slightly bias but whatevs.
Here you go, two of my favourite collections and some of the greatest minds in fashion history: Chanel and Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer ’15 Couture Week Collections.
Enjoy my little loves.
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
There was an underlying Bridal theme to this show and it was executed so, so well. This is couture – it is intricate, ridiculous, incredibly crafted and full of fantasy. These creations are one-of-a-kind pieces of pure art.
Oh how I love Couture Week in Paris. The fantasy of fashion is alive and well, with this week highlighting just how marvelous and utterly ridiculous the industry is. And that is precisely why I love it!
There were so many beautiful collections, magnificent individuals pieces and outstanding sets; so this is going to be a series of posts, and why the hell not! THIS IS COUTURE PEOPLE.
It’s Monday and we all know how much that sucks, so take a few minutes from your desk to indulge your senses and escape into this world of beauty and magic.
Holy smokes. Holyyyyyyyy Smooooooookes. Raf Simmons you mastermind! This collection is EVERYTHING to me. And those vagina-high, bold colour leather boots are sex on legs. Literally. The set was also exquisite – with massive steel pipes and pink (obvs) that reflected in the glass ceiling – and the show had a David Bowie soundtrack. I mean, hello. The collection was filled with massive floral gowns and beautifully embroidered pieces, as well as an ode to 70s glamour and 60s retro revelry.
I have been a fan of GV for a while now; because he creates these ethereal dreams with his clothes. Embellished and incredibly crafted, this couture collection was one of the best I have seen from the Italian designer and I have a feeling we are going to see a lot more of his gowns on the red carpet this season.
Keep your eyes peeled for upcoming posts on my stand-out shows from Couture Week SS’15; because there are tons more treats to follow!
Fashion Week is almost over (with Louis Vuitton showing this morning in Paris) and there has been a ton of social media posts about who wore what and what parties were where and which shows featured Kendall Jenner (surprise – pretty much all of them). And there have been some outstandingly exquisitely wonderfully gorgeous pieces and collections – Stella McCartney, The Row, Valentino, Mary Katrantzou, Marchesa and so on. Fashion Month is also filled with the BEST best best street style and crazy collaborations (can we have a moment for the madness that is Jeremy Scott for Moschino and Miley Cyrus launching her ‘Dirty Hippie’ artworks on the runway? Shame). But this is expected – I mean it is Fashion Week Season after all. And New York, London, Milan and Paris are not short of divas and fashionistas.
So what made Spring/Summer 15 different? One simple answer – the shows. I am talking about the actual concept and production of this season’s showcases. I think designers are realizing the value in an outstanding piece of theatre (some have been doing this for ages of course but it seems more prevalent this season than any other) because the desire for original design is a utopian one. Silhouettes have been exhausted, the high street replicates collections within minutes and ‘normcore’ has become a thing. SIES.
But SS ’15 has spoilt us with innovative brilliance and the most mesmerizing productions. There were several designers/houses that wowed with their creative concepts – Opening Ceremony produced a play featuring Karlie Kloss’ acting debut to showcase their new collection (casually directed by Spike Jonze and Jonah Hill), Thom Browne had models dressed as life-size flowers on stilts, Dior showed at The Louvre and had massive mirrors reflecting the iconic French institution, Dolce & Gabbana closed with all models dressed in the exact same Spanish-inspired red shorts and white dress shirts and Dries Van Noten had an installation – a common choice this season. The house of McQueen thrilled as usual with giant white flowers used as entrance pieces on the runway and Cristian Siriano had door frames plotted along the runway through which models swanned (not dissimilar to local talent Suzaan Heyns’ MBFWJ 2013 by the way). All very exciting for editors and fashion influencers that attend 8 shows a day everyday for a month.
But here are my favourite shows from this Fashion Month. Ps I’m talking shows, not collections.
Be warned, this might take a while because what is about to follow is NEXT LEVEL. Like, unnnnnbeeeeleeeeeev. I DIE. OBSESSED
1. Polo Ralph Lauren, New York Fashion Week
Customized Polo shirts (much like the ahhhmazing-to-die-for customized Stella McCartney ponchos seen all over the streets of the fashion capitals) for bloggers and models attending the shows was just the start with a show held in Central Park with a 60 foot tall, 150 foot wide 4D holographic water feature showing models strutting around the city. STOP IT.
Watch the full video here:
2. Marc for Marc Jacobs and Marc Jacobs International, New York Fashion Week
Two killer shows? Only Marc Jacobs could pull that off. We were first presented the gift of Marc for Marc Jacobs where the runway was setup to look like the coolest European nightclub you’ve never been to. Massive triangular light structures in flashing neon colours and hot models? Sign me right up.
But then, thennnnnnn. Marc trumps himself with the Marc Jacobs MASTERPIECE. All pink from the runway to the chairs to a huge customized doll house and Beats by Dre headphones on every seat so that guests including Anna Wintour could listen to the specifically chosen spoken word soundtrack. Plus models-of-the-moment Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid leading a flock of bare-faced, black-bangs-bobbed beauties.
3. Jean Paul Gaultier Ready-To-Wear, Paris Fashion Week
Ok so I am already obsessed with this man after going to the Jean Paul Gaultier exhibition at the Barbican in London where mannequins had real-life faces projected onto them and spoke to you as you walked through the genius that is the designer’s life work. Now, for his final show after more than three decades, the prince of punk and overt sexuality has done it again. “Miss Jean Paul Gaultier” – a showcase of brilliance and pure, unadulterated fun. Models came out as characters (like Gigi as Miss Sunshine) and were even dressed as famous figures of the industry – Carine Roitfeld, Grace Coddington, Franca Sozzani and Suzy Menkes who Instagrammed a pic of herself just to show how f**king cool she is!
4. Chanel, Paris Fashion Week.
I actually cannot handle this. King Karl you bloody GENIUS! This is one of the most brilliant things I have ever seen because, once again, Lagerfeld has proven the relevance of fashion and been so in-the-moment that it is thrilling to watch. I mean let’s be real, Chanel shows (shown at The Grand Palais which is completely taken over by the fashion house and reconstituted in luxurious dream worlds) are always inspiringly innovative but this? I cant. Spring/Summer 2010 we had the “Cowboys and Indians” collection shown in a barn. Last year we had the supermarket.
This year: Chanel Boulevard and A PROTEST. Moreover, a feminist protest. With models on megaphones. And Gisele walking for the first time in years. #ZEITGEIST. I seriously can’t even describe how brilliant this is, and if you don’t understand why it is so powerful then you are stupid and you suck.
Fashion Month may not be over yet but bloody hell it has been magical to cover. I cannot wait to see what these creatives come up with next year.