COUTURE WEEK: PART THREE

Finality is a terrible thing. Especially when it means the end of a week of dazzling creations and moving art. Today sees the final installment of my Couture Week series (see the previous posts here and here).

This post focuses on three collections: Versace, Valentino and Dolce & Gabbana who actually showed in Rome at Alta Moda. Valentino and D&G were beautifulllllllll and filled with a sense of royal etherealism (that’s not a word but I’m making it one, so deal) and Versace was its usual sexualized self.

It’s Thursday but it feels like Friday so relax, kick your feet up and have one last delve into the depth of desire.

VERSACE (VERSACE VERSACE VERSACE)

Sticking to a palette of four colours -black, white, red and blue – Versace did what they do best: SEX.

00010h_426x639 00050h_426x639 00090h_426x639 00100h_426x639

now THAT is how you belt a couture gown
now THAT is how you belt a couture gown

00200h_426x639 00250h_426x639

yeowwwwwwwww. HATT DAMM GURL.
yeowwwwwwwww. HATT DAMM GURL.

00330h_426x639 00340h_426x639 00410h_426x639 00440h_426x639

CLASSIC VERSACE SEX APPEAL
CLASSIC VERSACE SEX APPEAL

aefhoiczjxkm.

VALENTINO

This was a dream. Maria Grazia Chiura and Pierpaulo Piccioli (Valentino’s Creative Directors) were inspired by ‘love in its purest form’ and that ideology was perfectly executed in this collection.

Valentino always, always brings back femininity and grace
Valentino always, always brings back femininity and grace

VALENTINO VALENTINO

beautiful details
beautiful details

VALENTINO

I love the way this was photographed.
I just love the way this was shot

VALENTINO

LITERAL RED VELVET
LITERAL RED VELVET

VALENTINO

totally and utterly obsessed with this poetry in motion
totally and utterly obsessed with this poetry in motion

VALENTINO VALENTINO

"Amor Vincit Omnia" - Love Conquers All
“Amor Vincit Omnia” – Love Conquers All

VALENTINO

this is so full of drama and texture. I COULD DIE.
this is so full of drama and texture. I COULD DIE.

00130h_426x639 00160h_426x639 00270h_426x639 00300h_426x639

the things I would do for these coats. OMG.
the things I would do for these coats. OMG.

00400h_426x639 00420h_426x639 00460h_426x639

FullSizeRender

take a bow babies
take a bow babies

DOLCE & GABBANA (ALTA MODA)

ethereal magnificence
ethereal magnificence

002_426x639

D&G bringing royalty to the runway
D&G bringing royalty to the runway

005_426x639 007_426x639

DEETS
DEETS

FullSizeRender k

014_426x639 015_426x639 018_426x639

this is so characteristic of Dolce & Gabbana - luxe jewels and deep colours - remnding you of the opulence of Italian fashion
this is so characteristic of Dolce & Gabbana – luxe jewels and deep colours – reminding you of the opulence of Italian fashion

B81Na09IcAA0MZt

Roberto Bolle captivated the crowd at La Scala
Roberto Bolle captivated the crowd at La Scala

024_426x639

D&G also showed a Haute Couture Mens collection – Alta Sartoria – because one is simply not enough. Below you can get a glimpse of how utterly extravagant the collection was (courtesy of Vogue’s incomparable Suzy Menkes)…

FullSizeRender s

Couture Week may be over but Fashion Month is coming our way so don’t forget to watch this space and hit the follow button for up-to-the-minute coverage, catchups and criticisms.

PS I’ll be off the grid until next week because my family is all down for the weekend and that means eating out every meal, jolling and living our best lives.

Until next time xxx

Haute Hoodlum

 

 

Advertisements

COUTURE WEEK: PART TWO

Here we are again; reveling in all the glory that was last week’s scintillating display from some of the biggest fashion houses: COUTURE WEEK.

Yesterday I posted about Dior and Giambattista Valli; today is all about the King. King Karl, that is. And his genius counterpart, Jean Paul Gaultier. These are two of the most talented creative minds in the world and of all time (a bold statement, I know, but oh so true. And if you don’t believe me then BYE). Chanel and JPG – cos we’re tight like that – showed in Paris last week and absolutely blew me away with their shows. Shows, I remind you. Because it is always about so much more than just the clothes (in fact, sometimes the clothes don’t even make an impact but the theatrics of the show are what draw you in and wow you – a concept I discussed during the previous fashion week here).

These two men, albeit exceptionally contrasted, produced two of the most unbelievable shows of Couture Week. Chanel showed first at The Grand Palais (their usual spot, shame) and next was Jean Paul Gaultier. I’m obsessed. Not only because they had phenomenal collections but because they are both intricately connected to my summer course in London at Conde Nast College. Chanel, because the set and invitation were uncannily similar to a fashion show concept myself and a very clearly highly talented team created during our course (think all white mechanical flowers that opened to match the colour of the dress walking past and a white invitation that opened into a 3D flower) and because I went to the Jean Paul Gaultier exhibition at The Barbican and almost died of fashion ecstasy. So I’m slightly bias but whatevs.

Here you go, two of my favourite collections and some of the greatest minds in fashion history: Chanel and Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer ’15 Couture Week Collections.

Enjoy my little loves.

CHANEL

British Vogue Editor, Alexandra Shulman's invitation to the Chanel show
British Vogue Editor, Alexandra Shulman’s invitation to the Chanel show

FullSizeRender n FullSizeRender

I'm sure I could make a dirty joke about a bush and this hot gardener but I won't.
I’m sure I could make a dirty joke about a bush and this hot gardener but I won’t.

00030h_426x639 00060h_426x639

I love how Karl modified the classic Chanel tweed suit in several versions through this collection
I love how Karl modified the classic Chanel tweed suit in several versions through this collection

00120h_426x639 00160h_426x639 00190h_426x639   00250h_426x639

THUG LIFE
how’s that face? THUG LIFE

00300h_426x639 00310h_426x639 00360h_426x639 00370h_426x639 00390h_426x639 00410h_426x639

I mean, this is just the most exquisite creation
I mean, this is just the most exquisite creation

00470h_426x639

GIVE. ME. THIS. COAT. RIGHT. THIS. MINUTE.
GIVE. ME. THIS. COAT. RIGHT. THIS. MINUTE.

00510h_426x639 00520h_426x639 00540h_426x639 00560h_426x639

the detail on this dress? I LITERALLY CAN'T EVEN
the detail on this dress? I LITERALLY CAN’T EVEN

00620h_426x639 00650h_426x639

floral PERFECTION
floral PERFECTION

00670h_426x639 00690h_426x639 00710h_426x639

the most beautiful bride (and her entourage of flowers and male model gardeners)
the most beautiful bride (and her entourage of flowers and male model gardeners)

FullSizeRender l

ALL HAIL KING KARL
ALL HAIL KING KARL

FullSizeRender r

The Grand Palais. Home of Chanel shows.
The Grand Palais. Home of the Chanel shows.

IMG_8293

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER

There was an underlying Bridal theme to this show and it was executed so, so well. This is couture – it is intricate, ridiculous, incredibly crafted and full of fantasy. These creations are one-of-a-kind pieces of pure art.

I mean how is this for an opening? Bride meets Angel Mary meets Madonna
I mean how is this for an opening? Bride meets Angel Mary meets Madonna

00030h_426x639

sex on a stick
sex on a stick
OOF I WANT
OOF I WANT

00110h_426x639 00140h_426x639

THIS IS FASHION
THIS IS FASHION

00240h_426x639 00250h_426x639 00270h_426x639

JPG incorporated models of all sizes and ages into his show - following the latest trend seen in ad campaigns like Celine and initiatives like Advanced Style
JPG incorporated models of all sizes and ages into his show – following the latest trend seen in ad campaigns like Celine and initiatives like Advanced Style
unbelieve. have a strut!
unbelieve. have a strut!

00340h_426x639

I am only mildly obsessed with look. just mildly (hugely).

00380h_426x639 00410h_426x639 00430h_426x639 00470h_426x639 00480h_426x639 00530h_426x639 00540h_426x639

I don't know if this is an ode to the cone bra Madonna so famously wore but HATT DAMM it is good
I don’t know if this is an ode to the cone bra Madonna so famously wore but HATT DAMM it is good

00580h_426x639

Naomi Campbell is 44 years old and this is what she looks like wearing nothing more than a frikkin flower! PRAISE BE.
Naomi Campbell is 44 years old and this is what she looks like wearing nothing more than a frikkin flower! PRAISE BE.

00630h_426x639

Until next time xxx

Haute Hoodlum

COUTURE WEEK: PART ONE

Oh how I love Couture Week in Paris. The fantasy of fashion is alive and well, with this week highlighting just how marvelous and utterly ridiculous the industry is. And that is precisely why I love it!

There were so many beautiful collections, magnificent individuals pieces and outstanding sets; so this is going to be a series of posts, and why the hell not! THIS IS COUTURE PEOPLE.

It’s Monday and we all know how much that sucks, so take a few minutes from your desk to indulge your senses and escape into this world of beauty and magic.

DIOR

Holy smokes. Holyyyyyyyy Smooooooookes. Raf Simmons you mastermind! This collection is EVERYTHING to me. And those vagina-high, bold colour leather boots are sex on legs. Literally. The set was also exquisite – with massive steel pipes and pink (obvs) that reflected in the glass ceiling – and the show had a David Bowie soundtrack. I mean, hello. The collection was filled with massive floral gowns and beautifully embroidered pieces, as well as an ode to 70s glamour and 60s retro revelry.

IMG_8261

THESE BOOTS WERE MADE FOR WALKING
THESE BOOTS WERE MADE FOR WALKING

00020h_426x639 00080h_426x639

I absolutely LOVe this bright green coat/dress with patterned side slits and the ankle length version of my new favourite shoes
I absolutely LOVE this bright green coat/dress with patterned side slits and the ankle length version of my new favourite shoes

00140h_426x639 00170h_426x639

make it rain on dem hoes (so dem hoes can rock these badass rain coats)
make it rain on dem hoes (so dem hoes can rock these badass rain coats)

00260h_426x639

OBSESSED. GIMME GIMME GIMME!
OBSESSED. GIMME GIMME GIMME!

00290h_426x639 00340h_426x639 00370h_426x639IMG_8432 00400h_426x639 00440h_426x639 00490h_426x639 00500h_426x639 00550h_426x639

 

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

I have been a fan of GV for a while now; because he creates these ethereal dreams with his clothes. Embellished and incredibly crafted, this couture collection was one of the best I have seen from the Italian designer and I have a feeling we are going to see a lot more of his gowns on the red carpet this season.

00010h_426x639 00050h_426x639 00070h_426x639 00110h_426x639 00180h_426x639 00210h_426x639

playful and cute - couture no longer only means ball gowns and trains the length of a football field
playful and cute – couture no longer only means ball gowns and trains the length of a football field

00250h_426x639

subtle sex appeal is one of Giambattsita Valli's signatures and this dress executes the look with aplomb
subtle sex appeal is one of Giambattsita Valli’s signatures and this dress executes the look with aplomb

00300h_426x639

well I mean this is just exquisite
well I mean this is just exquisite

00340h_426x639 00350h_426x639

OG. because everyone who is anyone should have a floor-length lavender fur coat. PERFECTION.
OG. because everyone who is anyone should have a floor-length lavender fur coat. PERFECTION.

00410h_426x639 00420h_426x639 00430h_426x639

this pink crimped blown-out skirt is what dreams are made of.
this pink crimped blown-out skirt is what dreams are made of.

00470h_426x639

oh you proud little man; you walk down that runway and take your bow!
oh you proud little man; you walk down that runway and take your bow!

Keep your eyes peeled for upcoming posts on my stand-out shows from Couture Week SS’15; because there are tons more treats to follow!

Until next time xxx

Haute Hoodlum

 

 

FASHION FANTASY

Fashion Week is almost over (with Louis Vuitton showing this morning in Paris) and there has been a ton of social media posts about who wore what and what parties were where and which shows featured Kendall Jenner (surprise – pretty much all of them). And there have been some outstandingly exquisitely wonderfully gorgeous pieces and collections – Stella McCartney, The Row, Valentino, Mary Katrantzou, Marchesa and so on. Fashion Month is also filled with the BEST best best street style and crazy collaborations (can we have a moment for the madness that is Jeremy Scott for Moschino and Miley Cyrus launching her ‘Dirty Hippie’ artworks on the runway? Shame). But this is expected – I mean it is Fashion Week Season after all. And New York, London, Milan and Paris are not short of divas and fashionistas.

So what made Spring/Summer 15 different? One simple answer – the shows. I am talking about the actual concept and production of this season’s showcases. I think designers are realizing the value in an outstanding piece of theatre (some have been doing this for ages of course but it seems more prevalent this season than any other) because the desire for original design is a utopian one. Silhouettes have been exhausted, the high street replicates collections within minutes and ‘normcore’ has become a thing. SIES.

But SS ’15 has spoilt us with innovative brilliance and the most mesmerizing productions. There were several designers/houses that wowed with their creative concepts – Opening Ceremony produced a play featuring Karlie Kloss’ acting debut to showcase their new collection (casually directed by Spike Jonze and Jonah Hill), Thom Browne had models dressed as life-size flowers on stilts, Dior showed at The Louvre and had massive mirrors reflecting the iconic French institution, Dolce & Gabbana closed with all models dressed in the exact same Spanish-inspired red shorts and white dress shirts and Dries Van Noten had an installation  – a common choice this season. The house of McQueen thrilled as usual with giant white flowers used as entrance pieces on the runway and Cristian Siriano had door frames plotted along the runway through which models swanned (not dissimilar to local talent Suzaan Heyns’ MBFWJ 2013 by the way). All very exciting for editors and fashion influencers that attend 8 shows a day everyday for a month.

Moschino | Miley
Moschino | Miley
clockwise from top left: Saint Laurent, Dolce & Gabbana, Dior at The Louvre and Alexander McQueen
clockwise from top left: Saint Laurent, Dolce & Gabbana, Dior at The Louvre and Alexander McQueen

But here are my favourite shows from this Fashion Month. Ps I’m talking shows, not collections.

Be warned, this might take a while because what is about to follow is NEXT LEVEL. Like, unnnnnbeeeeleeeeeev. I DIE. OBSESSED

1. Polo Ralph Lauren, New York Fashion Week

Customized Polo shirts (much like the ahhhmazing-to-die-for customized Stella McCartney ponchos seen all over the streets of the fashion capitals) for bloggers and models attending the shows was just the start with a show held in Central Park with a 60 foot tall, 150 foot wide 4D holographic water feature showing models strutting around the city. STOP IT.

blogger Chiara Ferragni of 'The Blonde Salad"
blogger Chiara Ferragni of ‘The Blonde Salad”

ralph-lauren-4D-fashion-show-designboom02

ralph-lauren-4D-fashion-show-designboom04

green screen production
green screen production
the result
the result

Watch the full video here:

2. Marc for Marc Jacobs and Marc Jacobs International, New York Fashion Week

Two killer shows? Only Marc Jacobs could pull that off. We were first presented the gift of Marc for Marc Jacobs where the runway was setup to look like the coolest European nightclub you’ve never been to. Massive triangular light structures in flashing neon colours and hot models? Sign me right up.

JOL

photo 3
JOL CITY

But then, thennnnnnn. Marc trumps himself with the Marc Jacobs MASTERPIECE. All pink from the runway to the chairs to a huge customized doll house and Beats by Dre headphones on every seat so that guests including Anna Wintour could listen to the specifically chosen spoken word soundtrack. Plus models-of-the-moment Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid leading a flock of bare-faced, black-bangs-bobbed beauties.

image

Beats by Dre for every guest
Beats by Dre for every guest
Kendall and Gigi without makeup/with bold bobs
Kendall and Gigi without makeup/with bold bobs

Beats by Dre for every guest

3. Jean Paul Gaultier Ready-To-Wear, Paris Fashion Week

Ok so I am already obsessed with this man after going to the Jean Paul Gaultier exhibition at the Barbican in London where mannequins had real-life faces projected onto them and spoke to you as you walked through the genius that is the designer’s life work. Now, for his final show after more than three decades, the prince of punk and overt sexuality has done it again. “Miss Jean Paul Gaultier” – a showcase of brilliance and pure, unadulterated fun. Models came out as characters (like Gigi as Miss Sunshine) and were even dressed as famous figures of the industry – Carine Roitfeld, Grace Coddington, Franca Sozzani and Suzy Menkes who Instagrammed a pic of herself just to show how f**king cool she is!

Jean Paul Gaultier - Runway RTW - Spring 2015 - Paris Fashion Week

Jean Paul Gaultier - Runway RTW - Spring 2015 - Paris Fashion Week

I just love this. LOVE THIS. my girls Carine and Grace.
I just love this. LOVE THIS. my girls Carine and Grace.

Jean Paul Gaultier - Runway RTW - Spring 2015 - Paris Fashion Week

Suzy and Franca hanging out.
Suzy and Franca hanging out.
thank you, JPG. we salute you and bid farewell.
thank you, JPG. we salute you and bid farewell.

4. Chanel, Paris Fashion Week.

I actually cannot handle this. King Karl you bloody GENIUS! This is one of the most brilliant things I have ever seen because, once again, Lagerfeld has proven the relevance of fashion and been so in-the-moment that it is thrilling to watch. I mean let’s be real, Chanel shows (shown at The Grand Palais which is completely taken over by the fashion house and reconstituted in luxurious dream worlds) are always inspiringly innovative but this? I cant. Spring/Summer 2010 we had the “Cowboys and Indians” collection shown in a barn. Last year we had the supermarket.

photo chanel

This year: Chanel Boulevard and A PROTEST. Moreover, a feminist protest. With models on megaphones. And Gisele walking for the first time in years. #ZEITGEIST. I seriously can’t even describe how brilliant this is, and if you don’t understand why it is so powerful then you are stupid and you suck.

30-chanel-protest-signs_w1200_h630_2x

Chanel Boulevard
Chanel Boulevard
all hail King Karl!
all hail King Karl!

photo 4

No words.

Fashion Month may not be over yet but bloody hell it has been magical to cover. I cannot wait to see what these creatives come up with next year.

Until next time xxx